7 de abril de 2013

How to Remove the Mildew Smell from Books

Old books are wonderful treasures to find, and some can even be worth a lot of money, but they often come with a musty smell as well. Although it can be tough, you can remove, or at least reduce, that mouldy scent at home.



Edit Steps



Why books can smell mildewed or musty



  1. Check for dampness. Dampness, wetness and total soaking of a book is the primary cause of mildew or mustiness in a book, providing an ideal growth medium for mold, bacteria or fungus (which can all smell bad). A spilled drink such as coffee or soda that wasn't mopped off carefully can stick pages together and nurture mildew growth. Dropping the book in the bath can cause total havoc, while leaving a book next to a damp wall without knowing can cause gradual mildewing. Storage of books can often result in bad odors from mildew. If you don't know whether or not the book has been wet in the past, some telltale signs include:





    • Pages stuck together, especially around the edges but can be whole way through. Often chunks of pages can be stuck together, leaving others freely turning.

    • Discoloration, such as brown or black speckling, yellowing, and the like.

    • Actual mildew or mold growing on the spine or cover of the book, especially if the book is old and the cover is made from something totally organic, like leather or paper (no plastic).

    • It smells like mildew or it's musty (smells like a damp cellar/basement).



  2. Check for cigarette smoke damage. Another cause of a musty odor can be exposure to cigarette smoking. Books will look yellowed, may be speckled (brown spots running up and down page edges and often across inner pages of book; also known as "foxing") and there may be a stinky smoky odor as well as a musty one, depending on how long it has been since the book was in the smoky location (being absorbent, book paper can stink of cigarette smoke for years).







Fixing immediate sources of dampness



  1. If upon picking up the book, you can feel it is damp and see wet or damp pages clumping together, deal with it immediately. The longer a book is left, the harder it will be to fix and the more likely mildew will grow.





  2. Stand the book upright on a table. Fan out the the pages fanned gently. If your fingers can't disentangle pages without ripping, use a letter opener and tweezers to assist finer page separation.





  3. Let stand to dry in a warm spot free of moisture. Leave long enough to ensure that every page is nice and dry.





    • You could try direct sunlight if the book isn't valuable, just useful. However, be aware that direct sunlight may fade the book and for older, valuable books, could lead to disintegration, discoloration or curling up of the pages permanently. In most cases, warmth but not direct sunlight is the best approach.





Using an absorbent to remove moldy or musty odors


It's assumed that by this stage, you've dried the book or simply have a dry book and you now want it to be odor-free to enable it to be read again.



  1. Try kitty litter. You'll need a large container, like a Rubbermaid tub and a smaller container, as well as an absorbent, like baking soda, cat litter, or charcoal.





    • Fill the larger container halfway with kitty litter.

    • Place your smelly book or books in the bottom of the smaller container. Place the container above the kitty litter inside the larger container.

    • Seal the larger container tightly, and leave the book to sit in the absorbent for a few days.

    • Check every few days. If the odor has gone, remove the book or books and dust down (a new paintbrush is ideal for dusting with). If not, repeat until the book smells a lot better.

    • Store in a clean, dry place to avoid reintroducing the mildew or musty odor.

      • Activated charcoal or charcoal briquettes can be substituted for kitty litter in the method outlined above. Just be careful not to bring the book into direct contact with the charcoal or it may sustain blackening marks.





  2. Try baking soda. Place a cup of baking soda into a plastic box or bin. Place the book or books (this method is great for more than one book) inside and seal the lid well. Leave for 48-72 hours, then check. Repeat until the odor has gone.





    • Another approach if you live where it's dry heat and sunny: Sprinkle baking soda between the pages, perhaps every 10 pages or so. Leave the book open in the sunshine for a few days in a row (bring in at night). Sniff to see if it has improved and continue until it smells better. This won't work on all mildewy or musty odors, but it can be beneficial for some. (Be sure not to leave the book exposed to wind or rain.)



  3. Try newspaper between the pages. Place a sheet of newspaper between every few pages of the book. Do not use on valuable or old books, only cheaper ones (newspaper is acidic and it may transfer ink to the book).





    • Scrunch up balls of newspaper and toss inside a resealable plastic container or bag.

    • Place the book in and seal or add the lid.

    • Leave for 3-5 days.

    • Remove all the newspaper. The book will hopefully smell better. Do not leave books wrapped in newspaper, as this can harm the book long-term.





Hiding the odor


Sometimes, no matter what else you've tried, the odor lingers. Here is where you can try to mask the smell and hope that the result makes reading the book bearable. Note that none of the following should be done with a valuable old book as the perfumes and chemicals in the items used to cover up the odor can introduce elements deleterious to the book's paper, and in some cases, the musty or mildewy odor might be better than ending up with a crumbling book! (Librarians and antiquarians look away now.)



  1. Use fabric softener sheets. Just as these sheets absorb odors from fabric, they can do so for books too. Try the following:





    • Cut a bunch of sheets into thirds, and put one between every 20 pages or so in your smelly book.

    • Keep it in a zipper bag for a few days, and the musty smell should be gone.

    • This method is good for preventing the musty smell across numerous books as well––just put a piece of a fabric softener sheet in about every fifth book on your bookshelf.



  2. Cut a small square of fresh fragrant drawer liner. Place inside the book. You might like to use 2-3 pieces, depending on the size of the book.





    • Place inside a resealable plastic bag. Let sit in a dry spot for a week or two.

    • Check now and then to see if the fresher odor has been transferred to the book. Continue until the books smells a lot better.



  3. Use a strong essential oil. Add drops of an essential oil like lavender, eucalyptus or tea-tree oil to some cotton balls. Place in a resealable plastic bag. Add the book and seal. Remove after a few days; you should find the book smells more like the essential oil than what it once smelled like. Due to the risk of oil spots, only do this with books that don't have great value other than needing to be read, such as a moldy-but-useful textbook.







Future storage



  1. Check all storage areas before re-storing books anywhere. Ideally, the area should be dry and neither too cold nor too hot, as coldness can encourage dampness and heat can dry out paper and cause it to crumble. Humidity is bad all round, so find storage with low humidity or do something to reduce the humidity. And do not sit plastic containers in direct sunlight or near heat sources where they may develop condensation which has nowhere else to drip but onto the stored books!





    • Check that bookcases are not up against moldy, cold and damp walls.

    • Check the attic or basement for leaks, mildew and dampness.

    • Check any storage facility for bad odors and signs of mildew or dampness before signing up to storage.



  2. Use appropriate storage containers.





    • Choose plastic boxes if the storage area is prone to leaks or dampness. However, add silica gel sachets in case of condensation.

    • Don't fill bookshelves too full; allow some air circulation between books.

    • Add dust jackets. These can help keep moisture away from the book. It's easier to replace dust jackets than the book cover itself or its binding.







Edit Tips



  • Some ways to kill mold, bacteria or fungi on books include:

    • Microwave paperbacks. A quick zap might kill spores. Don't overcook though, you don't want a burning book.

    • Thymol can be used to destroy some book molds but it requires special application; seek instructions from a bookseller used to dealing with it.



  • You can't change the color of a book from yellow back to white. The yellowing is due to the many decades of using paper with acid as one of the constituents (mid 19th century to end of 20th century) and eventually, this causes deterioration. Love the book while you have it and consider getting it digitalized if it looks like it's falling to pieces. In general, yellowing isn't a cause of musty or moldy odors but books all have their own unique scents and perhaps one of the above methods can improve a bad smell not initiating from mold/bacteria/fungus or smoke.



Edit Warnings



  • Dust from kitty litter might infiltrate the book and spoil it. Look for kitty litter without a lot of dust or only use the top portion from the package (hopefully the dust will settle more at the base of the package). Litter can also be caught in the spine or binding, depending on the type of litter used.

  • Overly dry pages in older books may cause them to tear more easily. Be careful about keeping books in too dry an environment for too long.

  • Cigarette and tobacco odor are very hard to remove. Months of sitting on a windowsill in warm sun and frequent page turning may go some way to helping but really, only time can help and even then, it may not be sufficient.

  • Valuable book and don't know what to do? Don't do anything; instead, take it to an antique book retailer for professional advice. Better safe than sorry.

  • Bleach of any sort will damage and perhaps even destroy books.

  • Not all musty odors are due to mold or mildew. If a book shows no signs of water damage or staining but still smells a bit like a dank, sour basement, the acids in the paper may simply have been excessively oxidizing. Such acid odor often results from books being kept near heat sources, on shelves that receive direct sunlight, or otherwise frequently exposed to heat, which accelerates the gradual damage that the paper's own acids do to it over time. If the book is a valuable collectible (e.g. a rare comic book or an antiquarian piece that is otherwise in great condition), you may wish to take it to an archival preservation or book restoration specialist. Regardless, you should not attempt to apply any form of cleaner to it.



Edit Sources and Citations




Article Tools








via Jonathan's starred items in Google Reader

6 de abril de 2013

Tu personalidad según la fecha de nacimiento

Según la numerología, nuestra fecha de nacimiento tiene mucho que ver con nuestra personalidad. ¿Quieres saber cómo eres?.



via Jonathan's starred items in Google Reader

Cómo ahorrar energía

La electricidad es totalmente necesaria, pero a veces abusamos y consumimos más de lo que necesitamos. Para ayudar al planeta y también a nuestro bolsillo, nada mejor que concientizarnos y ahorrar energía.



via Jonathan's starred items in Google Reader

How to Draw Batman


From his premiere in Detective Comics #27, May 1939, Batman has become a superhero icon second only to Superman in longevity. Originally drawn by his creator, Bob Kane, the Dark Knight has evolved his appearance to suit each of the eras he has been published in, through the work of such DC Comics artists as Jerry Robinson, Dick Sprang, Sheldon Moldoff, Irv Novick, Dick Giordano, Neal Adams and Frank Miller. Knowing how to draw Batman well requires a knowledge of anatomy, perspective, attention to detail and a knowledge of the Caped Crusader's history, as described in the steps below.

Edit Steps



Drawing Batman's Body



  1. Decide which style of Batman you want to draw. Unlike Superman, whose look evolved early and has remained fairly constant throughout his appearance in the comics, Batman's look has been revised a number of times during his years of crime fighting. Both his physical appearance and his costume have changed, with the most notable changes being the addition of the yellow oval around his Bat-insignia in 1964, which has been dropped in more recent renderings of the Gotham Guardian, as well as no longer showing him wearing trunks that match his cowl and cape, coupled with a different rendering of his utility belt.

    • You can find examples of your favorite Batman look online, in comics anthologies such as "The Greatest Batman Stories Ever Told," or in shows such as "Batman: The Animated Series" or "The Brave and the Bold."





  2. Pick the pose you want to draw the Dark Knight in. When not behind the wheel of the Batmobile or in the cockpit of the Batplane, Batman can often be seen swinging through downtown Gotham City on his Batline, crouching on rooftops, breaking through skylights or tumbling his way into or out of danger. These action poses require knowledge of perspective and foreshortening to render the Caped Crusader correctly. If you haven't mastered these techniques, you may instead want to draw the imposing figure Batman casts when he's standing still.



  3. Get the proportions right. In general, you'll want to draw Batman's body to be about 3 times as wide and 7 1/2 to 8 times the height of his head. The Dark night Detective is described as standing 6 feet 1 inch (1.85 meters) tall and weighing 185 pounds (84 kilograms). If you're showing Batman from the perspective of a terrified thug seeing the Masked Man hunter drop down on him, you'll want to lengthen the body parts nearest the viewer and shorten those furthest away.



  4. Draw a skeleton of the pose. Draw a circle initially to represent Batman's head, a square for his jawline and a rounded rectangle for his chest. Use sticks to represent his lower torso, arms and legs until you work of the specifics of his pose and the perspective needed.

    • Because Batman's cape is so voluminous, you need to plan what parts of the Caped Crusader's body it will cover when you begin your sketch. You can start with a set of curved lines to show where the upper part of the cape will rest with respect to Batman's back.





  5. Flesh out the details. Start roughing in Batman's chest, arm and leg muscles. Batman should have a well-defined chest and abdominal muscles and a neck thick enough to bear the weight of his head, cowl and cape. Work the shape of his face from the original circle to be more squarish; if you're going for the look Sheldon Moldoff created in the 1950s, you want an especially square-jawed Batman.

    • Although Superman is much more physically powerful, Batman's physique should be roughly the same as Superman's, as the two heroes used to trade costumes to confuse their enemies in 1950s and '60s issues of "World's Finest Comics." Other than in Frank Miller's rendering from "The Dark Knight Returns," Batman should not appear musclebound, either; his physique should most closely resemble that of a decathlete.





Drawing Batman's Costume





  1. Make it hug his body. Batman's costume is close-fitting, although in more recent years, it has incorporated form-fitting soft body armor to protect the Dark Knight from bullets and knives. Thus, it isn't necessary to show every detail of every muscle, although the most significant ripples should be shown.

  2. Put the trunks in the right place if you're showing them. Although the contrasting color trunks have been dropped in recent years, Batman is still drawn with them in many pictures. If you're including them, the lower parts should ride where his legs meet his groin, and the upper part, which reaches his waist, should be concealed by his utility belt.



  3. Extend the gloves and boots to the right length. The sides of Batman's boots should come up to the thickest part of his calves, with the point at the front coming to just below his knees. His gloves should reach the thickest part of his forearms, with 3 serrated projections curving backward from the outer sides of his forearms to suggest bat wings.

    • The glove serrations are primarily decorative, but they served as bladed weapons in "Batman Begins."





  4. Give the Caped Crusader a large cape. Batman's cape is both longer and wider than Superman's. It should extend as far down as the backs of his upper ankles, ending in scalloped points to suggest bat wings and be wide enough that he can wrap it around his body the way Sherlock Holmes can his Inverness cape. In action poses, the cape should billow out behind Batman, large enough for him to use it as a parachute or parasail in an emergency.

    • Bob Kane's original vision for Batman's cape was as sort of a wearable hang glider, but this created a cape that was too stiff to draw.





  5. Add in the utility belt. Draw a line just below the waist and another line about the width of Batman's hand above it to represent the edges of the utility belt. Create a rectangle in the center for the buckle, then either draw in a set of spaced cylinders or rectangular pouches depending on which version of the belt you're rendering.



Drawing Batman's Cowl





  1. Draw in reference lines for the eyebrows and nose. Batman's nose and eyebrows are concealed by his cowl, but the cowl is molded around his forehead so the lines made by his brows show. The nose itself should be rendered as 2 triangles with a common side over the septum.



  2. Draw in the lower edge of the cowl. Extend a diagonal line from either side of the nose to the side of the head. Draw another line from each of these lines from where the cheek would be down to the jawline and erase the lines running from the cheeks to the ears.



  3. Position the cowl's eyeslits. The eyeslits should be roughly almond-shaped and placed where eyes would normally be. By convention, even in facial close-ups, Batman's eyes are not drawn in, but the slits are left white, although some artists defied this convention in the 1970s. (In recent years, this has been explained with eye-covers similar to those used by Spider-Man.)



  4. Add the cowl's ears. Use narrow triangles to represent the bat-ears of the cowl. Bob Kane originally drew fairly long ears, which were shortened a few years into the character's run and remained short until Neal Adams extended them again in the early 1970s.



  5. Shade in the cowl face. A common convention in drawing Batman is to shade in the area of the cowl that covers his upper face. This is not a coloration of the actual cowl, but rather a means to suggest the facial features covered by it. The shading usually covers the forehead and upper cheeks, but not the nose or where the mask rests on Bruce Wayne's eyebrows.



Drawing Batman's Emblem





  1. Make an oval on Batman's chest. This will serve as the outer border of the logo if you choose to render the chest emblem with the oval and as a guide for the bat if you don't. The oval should be about as long as the distance between the ends of the Dark Knight's eyeslits.

  2. Draw another oval just inside the first oval. The space will form a border for the emblem. If you don't plan to include the oval in the logo, ignore this step.



  3. Draw a set of reference lines bisecting the oval horizontally and vertically.



  4. Sketch in the Bat-symbol, starting from one of the sides. Until 1969, the bat was drawn with slightly curving lines radiating from the bat's head to form the peaks of the wings, which then curved down to the outer tips. After that point, the outer edges of the wings curled to resemble the edges of a 2-headed ax. Using the reference lines, draw in one half of the Bat-symbol, then draw the other half as its mirror image.



  5. Remove any reference lines you drew.



Edit Video



Edit Tips



  • When drawing Batman on paper, draw the reference lines lightly so you can erase them more easily. Make the figure lines more distinct to serve as a guide to ink them in before coloring the Caped Crusader.

  • If you're drawing Batman with a computer drawing program such as Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro, use separate layers for the reference lines and the final drawing. Once the figure is the way you want, delete the reference line layers. Color in the Dark Knight, then merge the layers.

  • The coloring convention for Batman for many years was to make his shirt and leggings gray, his utility belt and emblem oval yellow and the cape, cowl, boots and gloves medium or dark blue, with only the bat on his chest black. (The cape, cowl, boots and gloves were often described as black, however.) More recently, the parts formerly colored in blue have been colored in black, inspired by how the costume was rendered in "Batman" and "Batman Returns."



Edit Related wikiHows




Edit Sources and Citations




Article Tools








via Jonathan's starred items in Google Reader

How to Quickly Repair an Underwire Bra

Has your favorite underwire bra rebelled against you by breaking? If the underwire has finally busted through the fabric and is pressing against your skin, you don’t have to abandon ship and spring for a new one. Instead, you can salvage it in just a few minutes.



Edit Steps



  1. Grab a pair of sharp sewing scissors and moleskin. The moleskin will adhere to itself providing a soft cushion against the protruding underwire. Some lingerie stores sell a moleskin bra patch fix kit, which will work too.





    • You can purchase moleskin at either a craft or fabric store.

    • You will probably also find it at any store with a pharmacy. Look for it wherever the shoe pads are.



  2. Cut a small section of moleskin to patch the hole. The smaller the patch, the better, as this help keep the repair looking seamless.





  3. Firmly push the underwire back inside your bra. If possible, move the underwire away from the hole so you have only fabric in that area. Having fabric only will make it easier for you to repair.





  4. Remove the backing from the moleskin patch. Press it against the hole on your bra. Smooth over the moleskin patch with your thumbs so it adheres in place.

  5. Done. Your bra should be fixed for now; breathe easy and wear it again.







Edit Video



Edit Tips



  • Take extra care when washing a repaired bra. Consider washing it gently by hand and air-drying it instead of going through the machine.

  • Check repair site from time to time to ensure the moleskin is still in place. You may need to replace moleskin from time to time.

  • Consider adding a few stitches (hand stitch) to the moleskin for a more permanent fix. Or, take the bra to a seamstress or tailor for a proper, permanent fix.



Edit Things You'll Need



  • Moleskin

  • Scissors

  • Stitching for a more permanent repair



Edit Sources and Citations




Article Tools








via Jonathan's starred items in Google Reader